If your favourite holiday to celebrate is Halloween, then a word of caution. This tradition does not quite hold the gravitas in France that it may in other countries, particularly the US and the UK. However, as with many things, this is evolving slowly but surely. Halloween in France is gaining popularity, with many more people getting involved in celebrations. Particularly those with children, and, perhaps surprisingly, more in rural locations than within cities.
Historically, France was not a country that celebrated Halloween, perhaps because the tradition is effectively at odds with the core religious beliefs of France. Instead they celebrate “La Toussaint” (All Saint’s Day) on 1st November. The day when France honour the dead, visit lost loved ones at cemeteries and spend time with family. This day also marks the start of two weeks’ holidays for school children across France. Traditionally, France is renowned for shunning anything “commercial” and historically Halloween for the French, falls into this camp. But time is a-changing, and slowly but surely Halloween is starting now to creep more and more into French culture…
A pumpkin with candles behind it
The origins of Halloween
Halloween originated from the Celtic Pagan celebration of Samhaim, which marks the changing of the seasons. Between 31st October and 1st November, Celtic tribes believed that fairies and spirits were given the liberty to walk freely amongst the living on November 1st. Celts covered their faces during this time in an effort not to be recognised by spirits. This Celtic tradition was, in turn, adopted by the Catholic Church during the 9th Century. It was turned into a Christian holiday as an attempt to convert the Celts to Catholicism.
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The first recorded instance of a Halloween party in France, was in 1982, in the American Dream Bar in Paris. The party was said to have left residents in the area completely baffled. However, some parts of France have in fact long celebrated Halloween in a fashion, especially in Brittany – an area of Northern France heavily populated historically by Celts. Here it is said that until the early 1900s children would sculpt beets and turnips into scary faces and play tricks on each other. Several cities also celebrate the “Fête des sorcières” (Annual Witch Festival) during this time.
The American Dream Bar in Paris, France
How is Halloween in France celebrated?
The real celebration here, is the public holiday on November 1st. When France pays homage to lost loved ones. With cemeteries transforming into a sea of Chrysanthemums, as far as the eye can see. This has become the national symbol of love, immortality and longevity and is the flower of choice adorning gravestones on this day. It is said that during this period, more than 170 million euros are spent on these flowers alone.
However, a word of warning! It is a real “faux pas” to ever give chrysanthemums to anyone else for any other reason, particularly anyone living. Certainly, never ever take one as a gift to a dinner party, for example.
But, children dressing up and visiting house to house for Halloween in France, is on the increase. Surprisingly maybe, more so in rural areas than towns. Perhaps because within smaller communities, this pastime is considered safer and practically “amongst friends”. Don’t be fooled though, when French children dress up on Halloween the costumes are always scary, as opposed to ever being deemed pretty or “cute”.
Here is some good news though. There is no need to rush last minute google translating “trick or treat”. It simply doesn’t exist as a phrase here. Children will simply ask for sweets or treats on their visits.
Where can you celebrate Halloween in France?
If you are looking to celebrate Halloween in France on a grand scale, then where could be more spectacular than Disneyland Paris? The park puts on a Halloween extravaganza every year lasting the duration of October. With parades, shows, food and drink on hand, you can even meet some of your favourite Disney villians “in the flesh”. Parc Asterix, another theme park just outside Paris also boasts of a magnificent Halloween celebration from 25th October until the end of the month.
If less showy but more spooky is more your style, why not visit the Paris Catacombs? This underground cemetery is said to play host to over 6 million remains within the confines of its vast network of tunnels.
The city of Bordeaux
Ghost walks
If ghost walks rather than raucous celebrations are more your thing, then you could choose no better country to find options for this activity. With the number of abandoned chateaux, abbeys and stately homes on offer, many said to be haunted, the choice is unlimited. Some cities including Paris and Bordeaux even offer free ghost walks. What could be more interesting than strolling through medieval streets at night, learning about local history including myths and legends, such as the werewolf of Bordeaux or the man in the iron Mask of Paris?
You could also pay a visit to one of the many abbeys and palaces dotted all over France. The palace of Versailles, former home of Marie Antoinette is said to be haunted by ghosts that wander through both the building and gardens. Or in Auvergne near Le Puy-en-Velay, is La Chaise-Dieu, the abbey church adorned by the Dance of Death (danse macabre) painted on panels within it.
Simply party
But if you’re truly looking to celebrate Halloween in France, in the way you may be accustomed to, the best option is to find a party! Many bars host Halloween Parties. With prizes for best costumes, food and drink on tap and limitless ” joie de vivre” on display. Though these events may well have originated from expats, the savvy French have certainly caught on and spotted an opportunity to party, at the same time as making money.
And what could possibly be better than spending this holiday with friends and family. Especially at a time where the days are shorter and nights are drawing in. And we prepare for the long winter ahead.
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