From Begur to Tamariú, our writer in Spain, Sally Veall, takes us further along the Costa Brava.
Last month we began a trip along the Costa Brava in Catalonia, starting at the French border and stopping off at L’Escala, home to anchovies and much more and then L’Estartit.
Today we head south to some of the loveliest villages and towns on this exciting coast. By the way, “Costa Brava” in Catalan means “Wild Coast” and it is!
Whilst to the northern part which we covered last time, there are large bays with beaches and promenades, the further south you go, the craggy rocks take over and mainly offer small, sometimes hidden bays with little beaches. Often sheltered from the eight winds which are endemic to this coastline, this is where the true beauty lies. Some beaches are barely accessible and that makes them all the more attractive.
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Begur, Sa Riera, Aigua Xeilda, Aigublava
Begur
Beautiful Begur.
BEGUR stands atop a hill with a castle visible from afar. It is a jewel in many ways with its medieval centre, narrow streets, main square and views to die for. However, it is barely alive in winter and you will have to drive to Palafrugell (15 to 20 minutes) for everything. There is a supermarket open all year on the road to Palafrugell. Houses cost a small fortune here despite its winter hibernation and particularly close to its beaches far below. Property on the lower parts of the town, close to the entrance roads are cheapest while you will be looking at millions of Euro for a villa on the heights or close to the beaches. There is an urbanisation on the edge of the town where you can find more reasonably priced property.
Sa Riera
SA RIERA is one of Begur’s beach areas and has many fine properties lining the roads down to the sea. Sa Riera itself is a delightful bay with a secluded sandy beach. This is holiday country and there are some smart hotels in the vicinity. Views from the hillsides are wonderful, while at the beach you can enjoy a glass of wine or a meal in one of the restaurants.
There is a small urbanisation in Sa Riera where a three-bedroom apartment with parking and community pool costs from €500,000.
Aigua Xelida and Aiguablava
Take a look at stunning Aigua Xelida.
AIGUA XELIDA and AIGUABLAVA are two more coves close to Begur and the latter is home to a newly refurbished Parador Hotel. Again, both areas are in prime locations and as such are expensive areas for property, though that doesn’t seem to deter many. €595,000 will buy a spacious multi-bedroom town house in the bay of Aiguablava. Villas will cost considerably more.
Pals, Mossos de Pals and Platja de Pals
An aerial view of Pals.
Just 10 minutes from Begur, are Pals and Pals Beach with Mossos de Pals between the two. Pals village is inland and a very popular tourist destination as it is a virtually completely renovated medieval village perched high on a hill with an archaeological walk and many interesting buildings. Mossos de Pals is spread-eagled away from the main village and leads towards the beach area. There are some important urbanisations here with various types of property, basic shops and an excellent family-owned supermarket.
Pals Beach is an area mainly for second homes and tourist rentals. It straggles the hill with little cohesion but arrives at a very popular costal area. The beach itself is one of the longest on the Costa Brava and stretches for 3.5 km. Backed by pine forests and sand dunes and with views to the Medes Islands, it’s surprisingly unspoilt and offers all the usual types of beach and water sports.
You’ll find rice fields and wetlands running parallel to the beach too, which makes it a special area. Property isn’t particularly expensive here despite being sought after by people of all nationalities, but you will find two bedroom apartments from around €200,00 and somewhat more for a sea view and from €450,000 for a three bedroom house.
Palafrugell, Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariú
Palafrugell.
The municipality of Palafrugell and in particular its three beaches are probably the most beautiful and therefore one of the more expensive areas of the Costa Brava. Three seaside villages were once and still are, fishing villages. There are no high rise buildings and the skyline has been maintained as it once was. Each cove has its own special feel and in fact, each of the three villages have a distinct character. There is a very strong association which does all it can to prevent the erosion of the natural beauty, fighting planning applications that would mar the delicately balanced eco system or visuals.
Palafrugell
PALAFRUGELL itself is basically a working town, servicing the three coastal villages and LLofriu, its inland village. Some would say it isn’t attractive but then they don’t live there. There is a strong community spirit, and the town provides everything you could possibly need, including a cinema which shows films in English and other languages and where a ticket costs just €5. The town has a small but vibrant expat community with people from the UK, The Netherlands, America, Ireland, France, Belgium and other countries.
Property prices have risen considerably since the pandemic as more people want easy access to medical services, shopping, entertainment, and restaurants. There may be plenty on offer but many apartments and houses require work and so you’ll be paying more for renovated property. €135,000 will buy a small two bedroom apartment, while for a three bedroom townhouse, expect to pay in the region of €340,000 and more.
Calella de Parafrugell
CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL is the largest of the three coastal villages, offering several small bays and cobbled streets lined by whitewashed buildings. There are numerous restaurants and bars, hotels, shops and a small supermarket but be aware that many are closed in the low season and some may only open at weekends until Easter. It is a very pretty place with numerous glorious vistas and is home to the wonderful botanic gardens of Cap Roig where an international summer festival is held, attracting likes of Elton John, Andrea Bocelli and Sting.
As you might imagine property is not cheap, especially if you want a sea view. On the hillsides surrounding the village as well as LLafranc and Tamariú are some fabulous villas, some owned by sports stars and other personalities. €265,000 will buy a two bedroom apartment close to the beach but a three bedroom house starts at €370,000 and you can pay in the millions for a large villa with sea view. www.fotocasa.es
Llafranc
A visual treat – Llafranc.
LLAFRANC is much smaller with a pretty little promenade following the contours of the bay. There is a small marina and a pleasant walk along the breakwater which is lined with huge boulders – the perfect place to sit reading on sunny days. There a few hotels, some good restaurants a tiny main square and you can reach Calella de Palafrugell via the delightful coastal path called the Camí de Ronda which also takes you to Tamariú.
The village has quite an exclusive feel and this is represented in property prices. There are few if any two bedroom apartments currently on the market but for a three bedroom apartment you are looking at prices from €370,000 upwards. Houses and villas will cost from €550,000 to several million depending on location.
Tamariú
Have a nosy of Tamariú.
TAMARIÚ is the village seemingly preferred by local people but that’s not to say that there aren’t foreign people living there or with second homes. It also has just one bay, lined with restaurants, a few shops and bars. The sandy beach is pleasant, and you can enjoy lunch or dinner in the shade of pine trees and awnings. The hotel Llafranc is a popular haunt, and they serve a decent lunch too. It’s quieter here and maybe that’s why the locals love it. Property is expensive, no getting away from it but as it is an idyllic location, it is no wonder. A small two bedroom apartment starts at €158,000 but that’s for just 58 sqm. €250,000 buys a more spacious apartment, maybe with patio or terrace but for a four bedroom house in the hills with a view, prices start at €795,000.
We will continue to explore the Costa Brava next month when we will be looking at Palamòs, Platja d’Aro and Sant Feliu de Guixols.
